I've decided the further south and island is located, the more I like it. New Zealand has wormed its way deeply into my heart, Tasmania was a wonderful surprise for me and now Tierra del Fuego has worked it magic on me. I had always expected this southern most state of Argentina to be a cold windswept no-man's land, and there's a bit of that, but there is so much more. I flew into the port town of Ushuaia which is a naval base and jump off point for cruises to Antarctica and it was full of pleasant surprises. First was the fact that it's surrounded by beautiful glacier topped mountains. Every where you look there are magnificent views. The second big surprise was the quality of food. We ate dinner at a restaurant called Kaupe which had world class King Crab and Antarctic Scallop dishes.
From Ushuaia we drove north to the town of Rio Grande and the Estancia Maria Behety. This is the type of country I had in mind when I thought of Tierra del Fuego - wide open for hundreds of miles in every direction. What I wasn't expecting was the grandness of it all. It made Montana "Big Sky" country look small. The spaces and the skies are unbelievably vast. The steppes have their own rugged beauty, especially with the local Guanaco (close relatives of llamas) roaming the gently rolling hills. And the fishing - wow! Sea run brown trout here get up to 30 pounds and it wasn't unusual for us to catch 15 pounders. I don't know of anywhere else in the world where you can catch so many large trout.
I've fallen in love with Tierra del Fuego. I'll be back.Posted by Bruce on April 4, 2008 6:08 PM