From Ushuaia we drove north to the town of Rio Grande and the Estancia Maria Behety. This is the type of country I had in mind when I thought of Tierra del Fuego - wide open for hundreds of miles in every direction. What I wasn't expecting was the grandness of it all. It made Montana "Big Sky" country look small. The spaces and the skies are unbelievably vast. The steppes have their own rugged beauty, especially with the local Guanaco (close relatives of llamas) roaming the gently rolling hills. And the fishing - wow! Sea run brown trout here get up to 30 pounds and it wasn't unusual for us to catch 15 pounders. I don't know of anywhere else in the world where you can catch so many large trout.

I've fallen in love with Tierra del Fuego. I'll be back.

2006 Sangiacomo Vineyards Chardonnay
5-6-6
Light gold, straw colored with hints of green. A very tight, difficult to smell nose. Not too buttery, nice acid, plenty of oak. Kind of a creamy texture to it. The end of the finish has a slight woodiness, but I kind of like it. A medium long finish. A very restrained California Chardonnay. $32

2006 Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay
6-6-6
Grapes from the same vineyard in Sonoma that Radio-Cateau uses for their Pinot Noir. Very light colored, again a touch of green. Bit of green apple on the nose - crisp. Nice round flavors, some noticeable glycerin. Apple flavors predominate. Nice long sustained finish. You can taste this wine with your entire mouth. Good stuff. $40

2006 Savoy Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
5-6-5
Pinky colored. Nose has some cotton candy, strawberry aromas. Light tasting, pleasant and easy drinking but not a lot of depth. Starts out with berry flavors, moves a bit towards dark cherries. Finish is kind of long but not complex or layered. Nice, but not great, I'd rather have the Radio-Cateau version of this wine. Seems over priced. $52

2006 Tina Marie Russian River Pinot Noir
5-7-6
Purplish pink color. Tight aromas, hard to get a nose. Shows more backbone than the Savoy. Classic California Pinot with blackberry and raspberry flavors predominating. Finish is a bit short. A very pleasant wine. $40

2005 Spring Mountain Merlot
6-7-6
Blackberry colored. Beautifully balanced, but still definitely a merlot. Finish is nice and long but not layered. No grassiness, no harsh tannins, easy to drink now. $45

2004 Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
6-7-7
Dark bing cherry color. Cherry aromas, little bit of green pepper, but very very small; I enjoyed the aroma. Tastes very well integrated and balanced with lots of plum and a touch of black pepper. Nice long finish, with a bit of layering. Soft tannins, very easy drinking. $65

2005 Rattlesnake Hill Cabernet Sauvignon
7-7-6
Dark, almost opaque purple with hints of blue. Dusty blackberry and cassis aromas. Beautiful taste, some mocha, nice acid. Fruit first, very subdued oak, finely integrated. Tastes very fresh without any green flavors or harsh tannins. A nice wine. $120

2005 Cyrus-Ryan Cabernet Sauvignon
7-8-8
Grapes from the Napa valley floor. Blackberry color, touch of cloudiness. Some blackberry hints on nose. More intense than the Rattlesnake hill. Reminds me a lot of good Napa Valley Cabs like Stags Leap or Frog's Leap. More tannins than the other Cabs, but not harsh in any way, nicely balanced. Has a beautiful long finish that moves from the back of the pallette to the front.

2006 Grand Reserve White Meritage 6-6-6
Pale sand color. Citrus nose, touch of grass. Not surprisingly it's 13% Semillon and 87% Sauvignon Blanc. Tastes of pineapple, grapefruit, hints of green apple skin. A bit of an edge like grapefruit peel. Surprisingly long finish. CA$24.75

2006 Chardonnay 7-7-6
Pale sand, hints of gold. Butter, poached pears and oak on the nose. Big time malolactic but balanced by a nice acid. Surprisingly clean, with a low alcohol content that helps keep it tasting light. Well balanced. Not an exceptional long or layered finish. CA$18.95

2006 Riesling 8-7-7
Beautiful nose - extremely floral - you can smell it from yards away. Very dry, hints of violet, some orange, touch of lemon zest, green apple. Maybe some sour peach or peach pit or apricot. Nice long finish with some layering - goes from fruit forward to a bit of candy. I like this. CA$17.30

2005 Delaine Vineyard Riesling 6-7-8
Clear. Strong petrol nose, very little fruit though some green leaf. Sits on the knife edge between sweet and sour. Green apple, green pear, soursop. Very long finish to lemon. I like this. Would pair perfectly with a chilled dilled salmon. CA$18.95

2006 Delaine Vineyard Gewurztraminer 6-5-6
Almost clear. Big dill chip nose. A very dry gewurztraminer, kind of a funky european kind of taste. It has a long but not complex finish. CA$22.80

2005 Delaine Vineyard Pinot Noir 4-4-4
Bing cherry skin colored. Nose of nectarine skins, earth, a bit of plastic (not a turn on) or even furniture polish. Tastes green and very heavy on the earthy flavors. You've got to look hard for the fruit. Lots of dark flavors. Tastes very tight but I don't think it will ever open up. Tobacco and tannins on the finish. CA$25.30

2002 Delaine Vineyard Merlot 6-6-5
Opaque, slightly cloudy. Bell pepper, vanilla, blackberries on nose. Taste vanilla, plum, some green pepper. Hints at a velvety mouthfeel. Finish isn't complex but goes towards spicy plum. CA$25

2005 Delaine Vineyard Syrah 6-5-6
Dark red currant color. Cassis on the nose. Nice intensity and concentrated flavors. Black cherry, truffles, some dark chocolate flavors. Finish is surprisingly long with an emphasis on dark berries, maybe a bit of mushroom. My last taste was much better than my first. CA$29.99

2004 Delaine Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 5-6-6
Dark cherry color. Big green pepper nose, some currant in there. Do smell some cotton candy? Surprisngly fruity, softer flavors than I expected from the nose. Blackberry, cassis, classic bordeaux flavors with some vanilla on the finish. CA$29.95

2004 Proprietors's Grand Reserve Meritage 5-6-6
50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc. Dark cherry color, nice brilliance. Bit tough to smell the nose, not a lot of aromas. Light hints of green pepper, green twigs, cherry. Intense flavor - kind of a wow wine - very full bodied which was a surprise given the nose. Strong cherry flavors, hints of spice. Finish is long but not too complex. CA$24.99

2004 Gewürztraminer Icewine 7-7-8
Light gold color - "spring sunrise". Candied pineapple on the nose. Lots of tropical fruits, some candied ginger. Maybe some peach cobbler. Very light acid. Has a beautiful long lingering layered finish. Good stuff. CA$63

2004 Cabernet Franc Icewine 6-7-7
Red-orange copper color. Apple butter on the nose. Very intense flavors: marmalade, honey, touch of black pepper from the tannin. Finish is nice but not as long as the Gewürztraminer. CA$74

2005 Chambourain 4-3-3
Dark cherry color, touch of brown. Smells high in alcohol, but is only 12%. Tastes a lot like tar, and not in a good way. Finish is abrasive. CA$14

2005 Vidal Icewine 6-7-6
Gold/green color. Honey on the nose, hints of apple butter. Nice bit of acid, keeps it from being cloying. Very crisp, not syrupy. Slight grassy taste. FInish is long though not layered or complex. Hints of apricot on the finish. CA$40

2003 Riesling Icewine 6-7-6
Sandy colored. Almond blossom nose. Taste violets, green apples. Backbone has a touch of acid, like apples. Not overly sweet. Very long finish, with some apricot, but not much layering. CA$50

2004 Cabernet Franc Icewine 6-6-6
Copper colored. Sweet ice tea nose. Taste apples - a bit tart, some spicy apple butter going on. Don't like this as much as the Jackson-Triggs. Tiny bit of tannin. Finishes with strawberries.

2006 Late Autumn Riesling 6-5-5
Semi-dry. Very light, almost clear color. Hints of lime on the nose. Tastes much drier than expected. Very one-dimensional lemon/lime flavors, not enough depth, probably lacking acid. Finish is medium long but flat.

2004 Montague Estate Chardonnay 5-3-4
Light sand colored. Classic chard nose, butter and pineapple. Tastes green, not my kind of chard at all. Some butteriness but not the sweetness I usually associate with a bit of malo-lactic fermentation. Actually a bitterness predominates. CA18.30

2004 Founder's Series Pino Noir 6-2-2
Light cherry colored, some hints of strawberry red. Nice raspberry, classic pinot noir nose. Taste is very bitter - no fruit at all. Finish is hot and burnt. Drinking this was not a pleasant experience. This was really bad - could it have been a bad bottle? CA34.65

2004 Oak Aged Videl Icewine 7-7-6
Light gold colored. Honey and vanilla on the nose. Not overly sweet. Taste caramel, peach shortcake, bit of cream, hints of almond. A very long finish, but drops of suddenly at the end, not gradually. CA$89.95

2005 Cabernet Franc Icewine 8-8-7
Pinky copper colored. I love the nose - hints of strawberries. Definite strawberries in the flavor. A wee bit syrupy, but some noticeable acid, especially in the front of the mouth. Zero tannins. Nice sustained finish. CA$110

2004 Sparkling Vidal Icewine 6-6-7
Golden straw or honey colored. Honey and flowers on the nose. Tastes hint of mangos and lychees. Not as sweet as expected. Finish is nice and long with hints of nuts at the end. CA$70

2005 864 Charonnay 5-7-7
Very pale. Bit of a tight nose, hard to get much smell, but some burnt match. Tastes zero butteriness - do get grapefruit and serious minerality. Reminds me of a white burgundy. Has a long layered finish with a touch of burnt wood at the end of the finish. A beautiful elegant wine. AU$49

2006 Pinot Noir 5-6-7
Pinkish raspberry color. Almost candy nose. Dark stewed plum taste, with a bit of violet. Not overly complex finish. Last taste is much better than first, turns out there is a nice long finish in there. AU$29

2005 Over the Shoulder Cabernet/Merlot 6-5-6
Interesting almost candy nose. Dark plum colors. Hits of grassyness, cedar, blackberries. Tiny bit bitter, tannins a bit rough. Not very well integrated. Long finish but not very layered. AU$18

2005 Shiraz 6-6-7
Purple - a bit cloudy. Bit of white pepper on the nose, maybe hints of cardamon. This is a very different style shiraz with blueberry fruit and white pepper and anise flavors. The tannins say "Hello!" A long, nicely layered finish. AU$29

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon 6-7-7
Intense dark red/purple. Nose of sweet cream de cassis, sweet grapes. Beautifully blanced, tannins is there but well integrated. Nice acid too. Tastes of black fruits, cedar, smoke. A long savory finish on a nice classic style Cabernet. Good Value at AU$29

2005 Yarra Valley Estate Chardonnay 6-7-7
Very light straw color. Nose has nuts and burnt match aromas. Hints of fig on the initial taste. Nutty oak - maybe macadamia. Plenty of good acid. Finish is very long and somewhat complex and interesting. Really keeps on going to a beautiful finish. AU$30

Gulf Station Pinot Noir 6-5-5
Purplish red cherry skin colored, medium color intensity. Classic pinot noir nose. Dark cherry flavors with a bit of latte. Very soft tannins. Moderately long finish. At the end of the finish there is some candy/syrupy taste. AU$18

2005 Estate Shiraz/Viognier 5-6-6
Nice rich deep purple colors. The nose isn't as interesting as I'd hoped with the viognier in there - some white pepper, but pretty tight. Very ripe, stewed plum tastes. Viognier influence is hardly noticeable. Smooth tannins. Finish is nice, goes towards plum skin flavors. Last taste was much more interesting than the first. AU$30

Black Noble 6-7-7
A very interesting blend of botrytised semillon (Noble One) and Pedro Ximenez. Interesting nose of molasses & malt. Complex & interesting flavors with toffee, mocha ice cream, and malt. Really reminds me of a Starbucks drinks.

U.S. Distributor:
DeBortoli Wines USA
usa@debortoli.com.au
201.714.9700

2006 Yarra Valley Sauvignon Blanc 5-6-5
Light straw colored. Very grapey nose - the typical Sauvignon Blanc grassiness is kind of hard to find. Very sweet, not much traditional Sauvignon Blanc flavor. Huge passionfruit, a bit bit of yeastiness, crisp. Above average longth of finish, but not very interesting. Hints of oak seem to come through. AU$22

2006 Fontaine Rosé 5-6-6
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz. Rose-gold colored. Tropical fruits on the nose. Totally dry, with a streak of tannins. Red berries and cherry tastes. Nice savory finish. AU$18

2004 Heathcote Cabernet Sauvignon 8-7-8
Bit cloudy, light plum colored. Extremely interesting nose. Beautiful intense blueberry, currant, and spice flavors. Has a long lingering finish, nicely layered. This is good stuff. Nice yummy tannins. AU$40

U.S. Distributor is Grail Wine, 2870 Monticello Road, Napa

Another Margaret River icon winery. Leeuwin Estate was started with the help or Robert Mondavi back in the 80's and they've been producing great wines ever since. Like the Mondavi winery in Napa, Leeuwin often has concerts in a large outdoor amphitheater. Unlike Mondavi, Leeuwin has a fantastic restaurant which I highly recommend.

2005 Art Series Riesling
6-8-6
Pale, touch of grassy green. Nose of honeysuckle and wet rocks. Concentrated flavors, big lime and grapefruit, very crisp with a definite mineral edge. Finish is a bit shorter than expected (hoped) and has hints of orange. AU$22

2004 Art Series Chardonnay
7-9-9
Straw colored, hints of green. Nose of peaches and Fig Newtons. Wow, really intense flavors. Beautiful layers of peach, pears, pear skin, buttered toast, nuts. Incredibly complex finish, tons of layers. Oak is totally under control.
I had this with a Butter Poached Marrin (something like an american crayfish) salad, the taste pairings were interesting: With the marrin a sweetness came out which I hadn't noticed before. With the parsley, arugula, and mint salad the apple and pear flavors came forward (this was an excellent combo). This wine gets better as it warms up a bit - hints of an oiliness. This is as good as some of the best French Chardonnay I've had. I don't normally like Chardonnay, but this could be the best wine I've had in Australia. AU$85

2004 Art Series Shiraz
7-7-6
Dark purple. Nice nose - blackberry and oak. Rich, very warm flavors, almost sweet blackberries (though completely dry). Very nicely integrated tannins. Finishes with dark cherries. AU$34

2002 Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon
6-7-7
Dark purple. Cedar and pencil lead on the nose. Medium bodied wine. Taste hints of chocolate and black currants. Beautiful, yummy smooth tannins. AU$51

2006 Sauvignon Blanc / Sauvignon
6-8-6
Very pale straw color, aromas of gooseberry and lime. Intense flavors, almost syrupy but plenty of acid so still crisp. Finish is longer and nicer than average but not super complex. A nice flavorful wine, big on citrus and tropical flavors. AU$17

2006 Unoaked Chardonnay
5-7-5
Very pale. Crisp pineapple nose. Again, intense flavors, concentrated honeydew melon. Finish is a bit short. This would be a good party wine. Find this at home for entertaining. AU$17

2006 "Awakening" Sauvignon Blanc
6-8-7
Very pale straw. Lemon jam and lychee nose. Very little grass or gooseberry nose. Beautiful floral flavors - the lychee comes through strongly. Touch of caramel on finish. Finish is nice and long and becomes a bit minerally.

2004 Sangiovese
6-6-5
A bit light colored, crimson red. Serious jammy red currant nose. Raspberry and latté flavors. Finish is a bit short. Tannin and oak very nicely integrated. Aged on hungarian oak. AU$25

2003 Shiraz
5-6-7
Medium cherry red color. Nose is spicy - nutmeg, cinnamon, and black pepper. Smokey taste, spice and raspberries, gentle tannins. Finish goes on nicely. This wine grows on me as I continue tasting it. AU$25

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot
6-6-6
Dark plum colored, a bit cloudy. Nice intense violets, a bit of black currant. Tannins a bit grippy. Mocha, espresso tastes. Black currant too. No heavy cabernet sauvignon flavors.

One of my best friend's family owns this winery so I don't think I can give an objective review of their wines - I like them all. This was the first winery in the Margaret River region and they really know what they're doing.

And I highly recommend the restaurant at the winery. You sit on the second floor of the old winery and have a great view out over the vineyards, sculpture garden and eucalyptus bush while you're eating. I had two meals there and both of them were excellent. (If it's on the menu, I highly recommend the duck curry.)

On the wines, I have to say that I love the Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot blend and I think they make an excellent Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon. Both of these wines go beautifully with food.

2004 Wallcliffe Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon
7-8-8
Oaky nose, very surprising. Some lemongrass in there too. Wow, unlike any other SBS I've had. VERY round flavors - like lemon meringue pie. Really good. Has a complex finish, lots of layers - mineral, grass, lemon, pie crust, etc. Get this at home if you can. AU$35

2005 Chardonnay
5-6-7
Very pale straw. Hard to get a nose (why can't we taste with better glassware?), but a bit of buttered toast. Gentle chardonnay flavors, peaches, mineral. Very subtle flavors, long complex finish. Kind of a french style. Wouldn't want to serve it too cold. AU$40

2004 Shiraz
6-7-8
Brilliant dark plum colored. Plums and dark chocolate nose. Very fruit flavored, almost like a grenache. Sweet and savory layers. A very complex layered finish with cherries, caramel, cherry lollipops. AU$35

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
6-5-7
Dark brick colored. Classic Cabernet aroma, big on cedar. Blackberry flavors, some oak. Tannins are still a bit tight. Nice finish, long and changing. AU$71

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot
5-4-6
Finish is the best part of this. Nose has hints of vanilla. A bit bitter, tight green tannins. Seems like the grapes were picked green. AU$28

2004 Zinfandel
6-7-8
Brilliant dark cherry color. Very spicy nose. This is an interesting interpretation of Zinfandel. Tastes of chocolate, cherry pie, nice spice. Beautifully finished. Surprisingly, I like this. Very reminiscent of Alexander Valley Zinfandel such as Radio Cateau.

Cellar door sales only at this rather small winery. I love the fact that they use good wineglasses for their tastings and change glasses between each sample.

2005 Chardonnay
5-7-6
Pale straw color, hints of green. Vanilla nose, classic chardonnay. Surprisingly crisp, nice citrus & peach flavors. Finishes very differently, kind of grapefruit. AU$55

2006 Unoaked Cabernet
6-5-4
Clear dark cherry color. Extreme red currant nose, kind of brambly. Tastes a bit herbaceous, dark berry flavors. Tannins are a bit tight and green. AU$26

2006 Racy Red
4-4-4
A blend of 59% Grenache, 27% Shiraz, 11% Cabernet, and 3% Muscat. "The nice lady pouring said this was their red wine for people who don't like red wine." Cheap perfume nose. Very sweet. Pretty much like soda pop. AU$26

2004 Reserve Shiraz
7-6-8
Beautiful red color, a bit opaque. Nose is very layered, spicy, smokey, plummy. Initial taste is a bit overpowering with savory spices. No pepper. Beautiful long finish - mocha, cedar and smoke. A very interesting wine. Will be great in about 5 years I bet. AU$95

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon / Shiraz
6-8-9
Brilliant dark currant flavors. Raspberry and menthol nose. Beautiful round mouthfeel. Very layered with distinct flavors of blueberry, cedar, cassis, and who knows what else. A very long finish which changes a lot. A complex wine. Would be fantastic with elk or venison. Quite nice, if I could get this at home I would. AU$95

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
6-7-7
Brick cherry red. Kind of a tight nose, hints of cedar and peppermint. Gorgeous fine tannins. Chocolate and black currant flavors. Long finish, but not as layered as the Cabernet/Shriaz. AU$95

2006 White Port
4-5-6
Straw colored. Nose has spice and orange zest. Sweet but flavorful. Nothing like a white port from Porto. AU$26

Tawny
4-6-6
Dried blood red. Raisin and caramel nose. Flavors start with big raisins then moves to caramel machiato. AU$40

Liqueur Riesling
6-7-7
Yellow gold. Nose of dried apricots and pears. Tastes like orange marmalade on raisin toast. Very long finish.

2006 Sauvignon Blanc
7-7-6
Light straw colored. Very nice floral nose, hints of wet minerals, not a whole lot of typical Sauvignon Blanc aromas. Buttery - tastes almost like a chardonnay. Lots of sweet tropical flavors like mangos and guavas. Different, but good stuff. Nice finish. AU$20

2005 Chardonnay
6-8-7
Very light colored. Nose has a bit of vanilla and lemons. Despite no malolactic fermentation, there's a smell of butteryness. Very crisp, clean fruit flavors. Doesn't taste at all like it smells. Very long finish. AU$27

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot
6-6-5
A classic Bordeaux style. Black cherry skin colored. Typical Cabenet nose - pencil lead, mint. Softer tannins than expected given the nose. Finish isn't anything special. AU$27

2003 Shiraz
7-7-6
Dark violet colored. Nice nose - cedar and mint. Great tastes of blackberry, black cassis, plum skins. Finish has a few layers, but not a whole lot. AU$27

This winery is kind of off the Margaret River beaten track but it's worth a trip down to visit them. Because they are on the southern edge of the Margaret River appellation, their wines reflect the cooler temperatures.

2006 "Rampant" White
7-6-6
A Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay blend reminiscent of Conundrum. Pale, sandy colored. It has a complex nose, you can smell the Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay as separate layers. Taste is very citrusy, lemon, some kiwi and grass. Nice finish. Great stuff. AU$18

2006 "Five Ashes" Sauvignon Blanc
7-6-7
Very clear. Nice typical Sauvignon Blanc nose, slight honey notes nestled in the lime. Gentle taste, not too acidic. Plenty of lime and kiwi, hints of vanilla. A little bit of barrel fermentation comes through. Beautiful finish - very long. AU$20

2006 "Five Ashes" Semillon / Sauvignon Blanc
5-5-6
Very muted nose, can't get much. Very clear. Zesty kiwi flavors. Nice long finish. AU$20

2005 "Five Ashes" Chardonnay
6-7-6
Light colored, almost pale. Fruitcake, maybe almond on the nose. Pear tastes, very clean, light on the oak and malolactic flavors, delicate. Interesting layers of flavor. A very long finish. Well made, very approachable. AU$26

2004 "Rampant" Red
4-6-6
Shiraz, Cabernet, Merlot blend. Brick-purple color, some opacity. Bit sour smell - burnt spices, tar, anise. Taste is very different from nose - nice plums & earthyness. Finishes with some coconut and vanilla flavors. AU$20

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot
5-6-5
Brownish red color. Wet wool nose, prunes. Serious tastes of chocolate and peat. Finishes with more fruit. AU$26

2003 Shiraz
5-5-5
Kind of dull color. Nose has some mint candy in it. Cottony mouth-feel, milk chocolate tastes. Finishes with nutmeg and cocoa. AU$29